The Prambanan temple complex in Central Java is Indonesia’s largest holy site. ‘Prambanan’ means Para Brahman (“Temple of God Almighty”) and is a Shiva temple dedicated to the Trimūrti.
Its original name was Shiva-grha (the House of Shiva). It borders the Opak river, that was cut along a North to South axis along the outer wall of the Shivagrha Temple compound. This exquisite architecture was constructed many centuries before both Angkor Wat and the great cathedrals of Europe.
Since 2012 there are plans to protect the area around Prambanan to treat it as a sanctuary area. The proposed area measures 30 sq. kms and includes all major temples in the area such as Prambanan, Ratu Boko, Kalasan, Sari and Plaosan temples.
The sanctuary area is planned similarly to the Angkor temple complex in Cambodia, which means a moratorium on permits to construct any new buildings, to protect the sacred area from the damages of urbanisation and mass tourism infrastructures.
The Temple Complex
The architecture of the Prambanan temple complex follows Vastu Shastra and was built on the model of Mount Meru, the Cosmic mountain. The whole temple complex is a model of the Universe according to Hindu cosmology.
The urban center and the court of Mataram were located nearby, in what would later become Yogyakarta. Hundreds of brahmins lived with their disciples within the outer wall of the temple compound.
Originally there were a total of 240 temples standing in Prambanan. The temple complex consist of:
• 3 Trimurti temples: three main temples dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva Mahadeva
• 3 Vahana temples: three temples in front of Trimurti temples dedicated to the vahana of each gods; Garuda, Nandi and Hamsa
• 2 Apit temples: two temples located between the rows of Trimurti and Vahana temples on north and south side
• 4 Kelir temples: four small shrines located on 4 cardinal directions right beyond the 4 main gates of inner zone
• 4 Patok temples: four small shrines located on 4 corners of inner zone
• 224 Pervara temples: hundreds of temples arranged in 4 concentric square rows; numbers of temples from inner row to outer row are: 44, 52, 60, and 68. Today, only 2 out of the original 224 perwara temples are renovated.
The Tri Mandala principle
The Prambanan temple consists of 3 zones, according to the Indonesian Hindu tri mandala principle:
• Nista Mandala (outer zone) – a large space marked by a walled perimeter, which originally measured about 390 m per side, and contained a sacred garden, an ashram for monks and accommodation for the priests.
• Madya Mandala (middle zone) that contains hundreds of small temples
• Utama Mandala (holiest inner sanctum) that contains 8 main temples and 8 small shrines.
Just like Borobudur, Prambanan is structured in three mandalas, from the less holy to the holiest realms. Both the compound site plan (horizontally) and the temple structure (vertically) represents 3 layers of the Universe:
• Bhurloka (in Buddhism: Kāmadhātu), the lowest realm of common mortals; humans, animals also demons. Where humans are still bound by their lust, desire and unholy way of life. The outer courtyard and the foot (base) part of each temples is symbolized the realm of bhurloka.
• Bhuvarloka (in Buddhism: Rupadhatu), the middle realm of holy people, occupied by rishis, ascetics, and lesser gods. People here begin to see the light of truth. The middle courtyard and the body of each temple symbolizes the realm of bhuvarloka.
• Svarloka (in Buddhism: Arupadhatu), the highest and holiest realm, reserved for the gods. Also known as svargaloka. The inner courtyard and the roof of each temple symbolizes the realm of svarloka. The roof of Prambanan temples are adorned and crowned with ratna (sanskrit: jewel), the shape of Prambanan ratna took the altered form of vajra that represent diamonds. In ancient Java temple architecture, ratna is the Hindu counterpart of the Buddhist stupa, and served as the temple’s pinnacle.
The Shiva temple
The inner zone or central compound is the holiest among the three zones. It is the square elevated platform surrounded by a square stone wall with stone gates on each four cardinal points. This holiest compound is assembled of 8 shrines or candi. The 3 main shrines, called are dedicated to the three Gods of the Trimurti: Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva Mahadeva.
The Shiva temple is the tallest and largest structure in Prambanan Loro Jonggrang complex. Candi Shiva – the central shrine – rises 47 m high and contains 4 inner chambers that face the 4 points of the compass. The eastern gate of Shiva temple is flanked by two small shrines, dedicated to the guardian gods Mahakala and Nandhisvara.
The Shiva temple is encircled with galleries adorned with bas-reliefs telling the Ramayana. To follow the story accurately, visitors must enter from the East side and began to perform pradakshina.
The Shiva shrine is located at the center and contains five chambers, four small chambers in every cardinal direction and one bigger main chamber in the central part of the temple. The east chamber connects to the central chamber that houses the largest temple in Prambanan, a three-metre high statue of Shiva Mahadeva.
The statue bears the lakçana (attributes or symbol) of Shiva such as the skull and sickle (crescent) at the crown, and third eye on the forehead. The four hands that holds Shiva’s symbols: prayer beads, feather duster, and trisula (trident).
The other three smaller chambers contain statues of Shiva’s consort Durga Mahisasuramardini, Rishi Agastya – one of the Saptarishis who took the yogic sciences across South Asia – and Ganesha.
The shrine of Durga is also called the temple of Rara Jonggrang, after the Javanese legend of Rara Jonggrang. Indeed, Javanese folk religion was always superposed with the more elitist Shiva-Buddha syncretism.
A well containing the peripih was discovered under the center of the Shiva temple. The stone casket contained sheets of copper, charcoal, ashes, earth, 20 coins, jewels, glass, pieces of gold and silver leaves, seashells and 12 gold leaves (which were cut in the shapes of a turtle, Nāga serpent, padma, altar, and an egg).
The sacred peripih is the core of the shrine in all Indonesian temples
Brahma and Vishnu temples
The two other main shrines are those of Vishnu on the north side of the Shiva shrine, and the one of Brahma on the south.
Vahana temples
The other three shrines in front of the three main temples are dedicated to the vehicles (vahana) of the respective gods – the bull Nandi for Shiva, the sacred swan Hamsa for Brahma, and Vishnu’s kite Garuda. Precisely in front of the Shiva temple is the Nandi temple, which contains a statue of the Nandi bull.
Apit temples
Between these rows of the main temple, on the north and south side, stand two Candi Apit temples. Apit in Javanese means “flank”. The two temples flanked the inner courtyard on the north and south sides. The room inside the Apit temples is now empty. However, it is probable that the southern Apit temple was dedicated to Sarasvati, while the northern Apit temple was dedicated to Lakshmi.
Beside these 8 main temples, there are also 8 smaller shrines: 4 Candi Kelir on four cardinal directions of the entrance, and 4 Candi Patok on four corners of the inner zone.
• Kelir in Javanese means “screen”, especially referring to wayang kulit, fabric screen. It refers to a structure that obstructs the main cardinal entry of the gopura, similar to the aling-aling in Balinese architecture.
• Patok in Javanese means “peg”. It refers to the shrine location at the four corners of the inner compound.
Pervara temples
The two walled perimeters that surround the remaining two yards to the interior are oriented to the four cardinal points. The second yard’s walled perimeter surrounds a terraced area that consists of four rows containing 44, 52, 60, and 68 pervara temples, or 224 structures in total. Most of them are still in ruins and only some have been reconstructed.
The 16 temples located at the corners of the rows face two directions; the remaining 208 structures open to only one of the four cardinal directions. These shrines are called Candi Perwara – guardian or complementary temples. It is believed they were meditation place for priests and worship place for devotees.
Lokapalas
The lokapalas, the celestial guardians of directions, can be found in Shiva temple.
The Rishis
The rishis were carved on Brahma temple wall, while in Vishnu temple the figures of male deities devatas are flanked by two apsaras.
Lion and Kalpavriksha
The lower outer wall of these temples was adorned with a row of small niches containing an image of sinha (a lion) flanked by two panels depicting kalpavriksha trees. These wish-fulfilling sacred trees are flanked on either side by kinnaras or animals, such as pairs of birds, deer, monkeys, horses, elephants etc.
Kala
The carvings include the famous Kala representations that are seen everywhere on Javanese temples. It reminds of the fact that Time swallows everything.
The Deer park
A deer park on the perimeter that symbolizes the place where Buddha gave his first lecture after attaining enlightenment. Because of their proximity, the traveler might worship at both temples. As such, the temple park is a testament to the inclusive belief system of the Javanese: not Buddhist or Hindu, but both.
The deer park under the sacred Waringin trees
The Ramayana and the Bhagavata Purana
The temple is adorned with bas-reliefs telling the story of the Ramayana and the Bhagavata Purana. The Ramayana starts on the Shiva temple balustrade and continues on the Brahma temple.
On the balustrades in the Vishnu temple there is series of bas-relief panels depicting the stories of lord Krishna from the Bhagavata Purana. The bas-relief of the Ramayana illustrate how Sita, the wife of Rama, is abducted by Ravana. The monkey king Hanuman brings his army to help Rama and rescue Sita.
The story starts from the east entrance where visitors turn left and move around the temple gallery in a clockwise direction. This conforms with the pradaksina performed by pilgrims who move in a clockwise direction while keeping the sanctuary to their right.
This story is also shown by the Ramayana Ballet, regularly performed every full moon night at the Trimurti open-air theatre.
The Prambanan Plain
The Prambanan Plain spans between the southern slopes of Merapi volcano in the north and the Sewu mountain range in the south. The plain, valley and hills around it are the location of the earliest Buddhist temples in Indonesia.
It is called ‘ the plain of a Thousand Temples’ – this area was an important spiritual and political center.
• Lumbung – Buddhist-style, consisting of one main temple surrounded by 16 smaller ones.
• Candi Bubrah – Buddhist temple
• Sewu – Buddhist temple complex, older than Roro Jonggrang. A main sanctuary surrounded by many smaller temples. Well preserved guardian statues, replicas of which stand in the central courtyard at the Jogja Kraton.
• Candi Morangan – Hindu temple complex buried several meters under volcanic ashes, located northwest from Prambanan.
• Candi Plaosan – Buddhist temple built by a Hindu king for his Buddhist queen. Two main temples with reliefs of Boddhisatva and Tara. Also rows of slender stupas.
• Ratu Boko – Complex of fortified gates, bathing pools, and elevated walled stone enclosure, all located on top of the hill.
• Sajiwan – Buddhist temple decorated with reliefs concerning education. The base and staircase are decorated with animal fables.
• Banyunibo – A Buddhist temple with unique design of roof.
• Barong – A Hindu temple complex with large stepped stone courtyard. Located on the slope of the hill.
• Ijo – A cluster of Hindu temple located near the top of Ijo hill. The main temple houses a large lingam and yoni.
• Arca Bugisan – Seven Buddha and bodhisattva statues, some collapsed, representing different poses and expressions.
• Kalasan – 8th-century Buddhist temple built in commemoration of the marriage of a king and his princess bride, ornamented with finely carved reliefs.
• Sari – Once a sanctuary for Buddhist priests. 8th century. Nine stupas at the top with two rooms beneath, each believed to be places for priests to meditate.
• Sambisari. Hindu temple discovered in 1966, once buried 6 m under volcanic ash. The main temple houses a linga and yoni, and the wall surround it displayed the images of Agastya, Durga, and Ganesha.
• Gebang – A small Hindu temple discovered in 1937 located near the Yogyakarta northern ring-road. The temple displays the statue of Ganesha and interesting carving of faces on the roof section.
• Candi Gana – Rich in statues, bas-reliefs and sculpted stones. Frequent representations of children or dwarfs with raised hands. Located in the middle of a housing complex. Under restoration since 1997.
• Candi Kedulan – Discovered in 1994. Square base of main temple visible. Secondary temples not yet fully excavated.
