Banyuwangi and its surrounding area is home to the Osing people, an ethnic group living in the easternmost part of East Java. Their population of around 400,000 is centered in the Banyuwangi Regency. The Osing language is derived from the sacred Kawi language, just like Balinese.
They are the descendants of the people of the Kingdom of Blambangan, who remained Hindus until they were forced to convert to Islam by the Dutch East India Company (VOC) after 1770.
The Osing people: Descendants of the Majapahit empire
Osing history started towards the end of the Majapahit empire in 1478. Civil war and the growth of Islamic feudalties, especially the Malacca Sultanate, accelerated the descent into chaos.
Wars occurred between clans and fights were constant on the local and interpersonal level between the Javanese who had converted to islam and those who were loyal to the Javanese religion. This was a period of strife and chaos, during which the modern keris emerged.
The last rebels of Blambangan
At the end of the 15th century, at the time of the fall of Majapahit, to resist conversion, many Javanese fled east to the Blambangan peninsula, Bali and Lombok. The Javanese Hindu princes established there the Kingdom of Blambangan, which stretched from the Blambangan peninsula right up to the Tengger mountains of Central Java, another stronghold of the Hindu-Javanese.
They were therefore named by the Moslems as the “Osing” people, which in their language means “no”. Known for their warrior spirit and strength, they had resisted constant attacks from the Demak and Mataram long after the rest of Java had succumbed to Islam. Blambangan resisted for more than 200 years before they finally surrendered to the second Mataram Sultanate in 1743.
However, it had not yet converted to Islam until the late 19th century, when Banyuwangi was still a Dutch colony. The Dutch knew that by launching an attack on Banyuwangi, they would probably lose in the battle, as the Hindu puputan was a fight-to-death.
Instead, the Dutch sought to convert them to islam to weaken them, as part of a plan to eventually occupy nearby Bali. This was followed after independence by further campaigns of conversion, which led to the islamization of most Osing people.
In spite of the Dutch and later Indonesian government attempts to propagate islam and other foreign influences among the Osing, many still stuck to their old beliefs. Today, a large Hindu population still exists among the Osing, and increasing numbers are reverting to the religion of their ancestors.
Osing culture in Banyuwangi
The Osing are known as hospitable people. Good relationships with others are maintained through mutual sharing and giving, as well as trying to understand other people’s feelings. This practice is called tepo seliro, which means not doing something one would not want done to oneself.
Osing history is recorded in manuscripts including the Babad Wilis, Babad Sembar, Babad Tawang Alun, Babad Mas Sepuh, Babad Bayu and Babad Notodiningratan.
Osing art and culture are derived from the Hindu-Javanese. Osing art is full of mysticism. Their best-known dances are Gandrung, Patrol, Seblang, Kebo-Keboan, Angklung, Barong Ider Bumi and Jedor. The cultural village of Kemiren in Glagah Subdistrict is one of the best places to see these.
Barong Ider Bumi
Barong Ider Bumi is an annual event held in Banyuwangi. Barong is a Balinese mystical character that represents goodness, but the Osing depict it with more vibrant colors. It is usually held two days after the Moslem holiday of ‘Idul Fitri’. The Barong is paraded around the village by seven old ladies carrying ritual tools.
Barong Ider Bumi celebrates the Indonesian Hindu philosophy of duality, because everything in this world consists of two complementing elements: good and bad, woman and man, day and night and so on.
Gandrung
The Gandrung is another of Banyuwangi’s famous traditions. It commemorates the Puputan Bayu battle of the Blambangan Kingdom against invading neighbors and the Dutch VOC. Led by Prince Rempeg Jogopati, the Osing suffered over 60,000 dead in the battle. Only 5,000 Osing were left standing after the defeat. This battle crystallized Osing cultural identity.
The event involves hundreds of dancers and was created amid great opposition from the colonial government. It is rich with anti-invader symbolism. The gending (musical instruments) are called Podho Nonton and played as a sort of local anthem. Gandrung also symbolizes the birth of Blambangan as a capital city to replace its damaged predecessor, Ulu Pangpang.
Banyuwangi Ethno Carnival
The Banyuwangi Ethno Carnival is part of the annual Banyuwangi Festival. People in magnificent costumes based on that year’s theme parade for over 2 kilometers around the city that carries different art themes each year. The international-scale festival is one of the major attractions and brings visitors from all over.
Osing houses in the Banyuwangi area
Osing architecture and design blends Javanese, Hindu-Buddhist and Chinese elements. There are several kinds of Osing houses:
- The two-sided roof or Rumah Crocogan is the forefront used to welcome guests.
- The four-sided roof is named the Tikel Balung, housing the family room and bedrooms.
- The three-sided roof named the Baresan is located in the back as kitchen.
Traditional Osing houses are made from benda wood (Artocarpus elasticus), also known as terap. Benda wood can stay intact more than 100 years, does not easily break or bend, and naturally repels termites.
Timber used for building houses is traditionally harvested a year in advance by slitting the tree trunk for sap and letting it bleed slowly to death. This process makes the wood exceptionally robust.
The Osing’s entrance are usually ornamented with:
- Wood carvings of certain pattern, such as the kawung. The kawung symbolises faithfulness to one spouse for life.
- A rooftop slanting downward symbolizes humility and courtesy.
- Bamboo or wooden walls symbolize modesty and simplicity.
- The semanggi (clover) ornament symbolizes peace and happiness in a well-fed household.
- The selimpetan (sunflower with swastika) symbolizes the unending love of a man and a woman.
Kemiren Arts Village
The history of Kemiren village dates back to the time of Majapahit, where many of the population fled to various regions to start a new life and preserve the ancestral culture.
During the independence war in the 1800s, Cungking village was gradually abandoned as people were running away from the Dutch troops to a densely forested area nearby. There were so many Kemiri and Durian trees growing on the thick forest, which soon became their new home. They settled down and named their village after both trees, Kemiri-Duren merged as Kemiren.
Cinde Sutro is the only place where you can find collections of batik and weaves made of natural cotton, dyed with plants, a form of Ayurvastra. Osing batik patterns are picked from their natural surroundings. The colors are the result of multiple dying process with secang woods and mango leaves.
How to visit Kemiren
It is located on the way to the Ijen Crater. It will take around 40 minute’s drive from Blimbingsari Airport, and you can get to Desa Wisata Osing in Kemiren by rental cars with local guides. Address: Jalan Perkebunan Kelibendo No. 238, Glagah, Banyuwangi
Accomodation in Kemiren
Comfortable homestays are available in Kemiren village.
Banguwangi: the richest environment in Java
The Banguwangi area and eastern tip of Java is the least populated area in Java, an island which is normally overpopulated, and has five national parks and reserves. It is a region of stunning natural beauty with lush terraced rice fields, volcanoes, and beautiful beaches.
The rich volcanic soils and high rainfall produces an abundance of food. Around Kalibaru, there is a huge plantation area where hundreds of workers produce rubber, cloves, tobacco, coconuts and sugar cane. The famous Rafflesia, the largest flower in the world, can be found in this area.
The town of Banyuwangi is the gateway to the area, whether to the famous Ijen Crater, to the sacred forest of Alas Purwo, or to the secluded beaches at Pulau Merah or Sukamade Beach. Banyuwangi is where the dawn first rises in the morning over Java. It is dominated by the impressive Mount Raung that stands at 3,282 m and Mount Merapi at 2,800 m.
In Alas Purwo live plenty of wild animal such as deer, jungle wild pig, peacocks and Javanese eagle and of course the Javanese wild bull.
50 types of mammals living in Alas Purwo such as the Javanese bull, or Banten, the Javanese deer, the Indian wild dog, wild boar, Indian muntjac, leopard, Indian civet, banded linsang, Asian palm civet, Javan mongoose and leopard cat. This area has at least 6 ecosystems – bamboo forests, coastal rain, mangrove forests, natural forests, forest plantations and grasslands.
The Ananthaboga sacred pond (petirtaan) near Candi Agung Gumuk Kancil on Mount Raung
The Alas Purwo Sacred Forest
The Alas Purwo national park is located at the easternmost part of Java island. The ecosystem of this area has been well preserved because of it remote location.
The name Alas Purwo itself means “the first forest” or “the oldest forest”. Purwo in Javanese means “beginning”, so Alas Purwo means the “primordial forest”. Alas Purwo is seen as the first creation site on Earth, the original land. For the people of Banyuwangi, this place is known to be haunted and very sacred.
Local Javanese people believe this is a mystical forest. People who try to disturb or destroy even a tree ill get wrath from the elders. Residents often see apparitions of spirits. This is reinforced by the local natural conditions in the form of virgin forests, the number of caves, and there are a number of sites that are often used as places for carrying out various religious rituals.
Every year, thousands of Hindus visit a mysterious temple located in the center of Alas Purwo. Whereas every Suro 1 and during the full moon, many residents come to Alas Purwo to meditate, look for wangsit. Many mystics agree that Alas Purwo is the most haunted place on Java.
The whole Banyuwangi area is dotted with sacred places and holy shrines.
In the middle of the Alas Purwo National Park lies the Kawitan site, which was re discovered by residents around 1965 and it was reopened for religious activities in 1968. The place, according to the Hindu community around Tegal Delimo, is related to Rishi Markendya’s journey to Bali. It was once a place of Mpu Baradah hermitage.
This is the place for people who want to perform some kind of brata or penance that is not kidding. Tirakat performed for three days without eating and drinking, and the most important thing is that as long as the brata are not allowed the slightest feeling of anger or hatred towards anything.
The site is believed to be a very sacred place, so near the site was later established the Pura Giri Selaka temple. This temple was built because there are more and more people performing rituals. So the temple was established to perform religious services, especially the Pager Wesi ritual which is held once every 210 days on Kliwon day.
The Pager Wesi ritual goes through 3 stages:
- Palemahan in the form of offerings for the land as Bhatara Kala food
- Pawongan is a decline of knowledge from the gods
- Khayangan as gratitude for the abundance of knowledge.
How to visit Alas Purwo
Choose the Banyuwangi city route to the Rogojampi-Srono-Muncar-Tegaldlimo District. From Tegaldlimo about 10 km via the macadam road, you will find the Rawabendo Post, which is the main gate of the Alas Purwo National Park. You need to rent a car, because there are no public vehicles that go to Alas Purwo. From Banyuwangi city, it takes about 2 hours to reach the Alas Purwo gate. See the map.
Pura Giri Selaka in the Alas Purwo forest
How to visit Banyuwangi
- You can travel to Banyuwangi by plane or by train.
- To visit the many attractions around Banyuwangi it is best to rent a car at the airport.
- To travel from Bali, catch the ferry at Gilimanuk port, which sails to the port of Ketapang at Banyuwangi.
- Banyuwangi is 230 km from Surabaya, which is connected directly by international airlines. You can then connect on Garuda Indonesia or Lion Air flights from Surabaya to Banyuwangi. There are also daily flights from Bali to Banyuwangi.
- Find accomodation in Banywangi area
